Classic Handguns: The Colt Single Action Army revolver

The Colt Single Action Army is indelibly associated with the romance and adventure of the Wild West.  Sitting through countless cowboy themed television shows and Saturday afternoon matinees in the 1950s and 60s meant that every small boy (and even some discerning small girls) became familiar with the SAA, even if most of us didn’t know what it actually was.  Whether we called it a “Peacemaker”, “Colt 45” or just a “six-shooter”, for a whole generation, the SAA was simply the “cowboy gun”.  It somehow looked right and the evocative and distinctive click, clack, click, clack of the hammer being cocked became a kind of aural shorthand for manliness, excitement and danger.  Sadly, the idea that every cowboy carried a Colt SAA is not historically accurate – S&W top-break revolvers for example, were more numerous on the frontiers of America in the late 1800s.  However, in the 1940s, 50s and 60s, when many cowboy movies and television programmes were being made, Colt SAAs were more readily and cheaply available than most other guns of the frontier period and so were most often used as props. For this reason the Colt SAA will always be the pistol most people associate with the Wild West.

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The Cast of the Maverick television show demonstrate their Colt SAAs, circa 1957

However, in addition to fuelling adolescent cowboy fantasies, the Colt SAA was also an important handgun.  It may not have been the first revolver or even the first handgun to use a self-contained cartridge but it combined these things in a simple, rugged and enduring design which provided reliable firepower to very large numbers of people.  Few would argue that this handgun, which has remained in production almost continuously for over 140 years, is worthy of the title “classic“.

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Who was that masked stranger?  It was Clayton Moore actually, wearing unfeasibly tight trousers and dual-wielding a pair of 5½” Colt SAAs in the 1955 Lone Ranger television show.

Development

Up to the late 1700s and early 1800s, most handguns were single-shot, muzzle loading designs which used sparks from a piece of flint to ignite black powder.  There were multi-barrel pistols, but on most, pulling the trigger fired all the barrels simultaneously.  Reloading was slow and cumbersome and even a light shower of rain could render a pistol incapable of firing.  However, in 1807 a patent was accepted for the percussion cap.  This was a small copper cap filled with percussion sensitive material such as mercury fulminate or potassium chlorate.  If the percussion cap was struck by the hammer of a pistol, it produced a small explosion which was then used to fire the main charge.  Percussion caps were reliable and less prone to failure due to damp than the flint/black powder system.  A number of muzzle loading pistols were produced which used percussion caps, but most were still single-shot designs.

In 1830, a young American farmer’s son, Samuel Colt, was sent to begin a career as a seafarer.  The 16 year old lad was interested in firearms and pyrotechnics (one of his most prized possessions was his Grandfather’s flintlock pistol).  His ability to produce spectacular explosions and fireworks had made him very popular with his friends at school, until one of his experiments led to a fire which resulted in his expulsion.  Looking for a suitable career for his son (and presumably one which would keep him as far as possible for explosives), Samuel’s father decided that seafaring might provide a safe outlet for his son’s interests and enthusiasm.  Samuel joined the small brig Corvo, sailing between the US and Calcutta.  Legend has it that Colt spent time during the voyage examining the ratchet and pawl mechanism used to control the ship’s steering gear and pondering whether a similar mechanism could be used to index multiple barrels in a handgun?  He later claimed that he whittled a prototype pistol with revolving barrels from wood while on the ship to confirm that this was possible.

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Colt Paterson revolver

Colt returned to the US in 1832 and began refining his design.  In 1836 he registered a patent for a “revolving gun”.  This incorporated a revolving cylinder (rather than the rotating barrels of his first prototype) and used percussion caps to ignite the powder charge in each chamber of the cylinder.  In 1836 Colt formed the Patent Arms Manufacturing company in Paterson, New Jersey and began manufacture and sale of the five-shot Colt Paterson pistol, which is claimed to be the first practical revolver.  Initially the Colt Paterson was offered in .28″ calibre though it was later upgraded to .36″.  Sadly, it didn’t prove very popular in any calibre.  Each pistol was hand-made, which meant it was expensive compared to other contemporary handguns and it proved to be fragile and unreliable in use.  Colt was forced to sell the company and abandon manufacture of this revolver in 1842.

However, some people saw the possibilities inherent in the concept of a revolver.  Captain Samuel Walker of the Texas Rangers was one of these.  He contacted Colt to discuss ways of improving the Colt Paterson design (one of his suggestions was that a larger projectile would make the pistol capable of killing not just people, but horses too, an important consideration for the Rangers who often found themselves fighting mounted opponents).  In 1846, the Walker Colt appeared.  This six shot pistol was a clear improvement on the first revolver.  The design of the internal mechanism was simplified to make it more reliable and the new pistol was chambered for a .454″ (11.5mm) bullet. This was still a percussion cap design where black powder, a percussion cap and a bullet had to be separately loaded into each cylinder. When it appeared, the Walker Colt was the most powerful handgun available, and it would remain so until the introduction of the .357 round in the 1930s.  The Walker Colt also used a number of machine-made parts (an innovation in 1846) which meant that parts were more uniform and could safely be interchanged between pistols.  The Walker Colt proved to be much more reliable and its use by the Texas Rangers provided positive publicity.  Commercial success followed and Colt was able to build his own firearms manufacturing plant.

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Clint Eastwood as The Outlaw Josey Wales with a pair of Walker Colt revolvers

Colt continued to evolve and refine his designs, producing a number of percussion cap revolvers up to the 1860s.  However, another important innovation appeared in the early 1860s: the centre-fire cartridge.  This was a self-contained cartridge where a charge of gunpowder and a bullet were mounted in a brass casing which also incorporated a percussion cap in its base.  The centre-fire cartridge allowed much faster reloading and was virtually impervious to rain and damp.  Unfortunately for Colt, Smith & Wesson held the patent for the bored-through revolver cylinders required to use this new cartridge, and Colt wasn’t willing to pay royalties to a competitor.  However, the S&W patent expired in 1869 and the Colt company immediately began work on the design of a new revolver using the .45″ centre-fire cartridge which could be offered to the US Army.

Like all previous Colt revolvers, the new design was single action only but it allowed the loading of up to six centre-fire cartridges via a loading gate on the right side of the frame.  It also incorporated an ejector under the 7½” barrel to remove spent cartridge casings (early cartridge cases were prone to distort on firing, often jamming them in the chamber).  For the first time on a Colt revolver, the SAA included a top-strap on the frame to provide additional strength to deal with the power of the .45″ round (the new pistol was originally to be called the “Colt Strap Pistol“).  Colt entered the new design into the US Army trials in 1873 and it was adopted as the M1873 and used as the main US military sidearm until its replacement in 1891 by a Colt double-action revolver.

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7½” Colt SAA from 1875

The Colt Single Action Army revolver also proved massively popular as a civilian weapon.  It was rugged, reliable, easy to repair if it did fail and its machine-made internal parts could be interchanged between weapons.  Best of all, Colt’s hi-tech manufacturing process meant that it was also cheap: the SAA cost just $17 when it was launched on the civilian market.  This compared very favourably to the $40 – $50 asked for the Colt Paterson pistol in 1836, though the US Army paid just $13.50 for each of their first batch of SAAs.

Other versions followed including the Flat-top Target with a decent notch rear sight and the Bisley Target Model with a longer grip, wider hammer and trigger and a rear sight which was adjustable for windage.  However, although these later developments were in many ways more practical, especially as target shooters, none could match the rugged simplicity of the original SAA.

Use

Between 1873 and 1941 (when production of what became known as the “first generation” SAA ended) more than 350,000 Colt SAAs were produced in more than thirty different calibres, though .45″ was the most popular.  In addition to the 7½” “Cavalry” version, two other barrel lengths were commonly offered: The 4¾” “Civilian” and the 5½” “Artillery”, though numbers of SAAs with different barrel lengths were also produced including a compact version (known as the Banker, or Storekeeper) with a 4″ barrel and without the under-barrel ejector rod.  A number of finishes were offered including blued and colour case hardened though limited numbers with nickel, gold or silver plating or other unusual finishes were also produced.  Standard grips were either black hard rubber or walnut though other exotic woods, ivory, mother of pearl and staghorn grips were also used for special models.  The huge interest in the Wild West promoted by movies and television led to Colt re-introducing the SAA in 1956 (the “second generation”).  In 1975 the third generation SAA was introduced, and this version remains in production to the present day.

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All versions of the SAA are single action only and all have a delightfully light (around 3lbs) pull and a crisp and consistent release.  When you compare the profile of the SAA to any modern handgun, it looks kind of odd.  The grip has an elegant if rather unusual curve.  Sit it beside almost any modern semi-auto pistol and it just doesn’t look as if it will fit your hand.  And yet it does.  Perfectly.  The SAA will comfortably fit most hand sizes and it’s a natural pointer with great balance.  Hold an SAA, look at the target and you’ll find that the pistol just naturally follows.  Which is lucky, because the sights (especially on first generation models) are rudimentary.  The tall foresight is lined up with a V shaped groove in the top of the frame.  Windage adjustment is done by bending the foresight in the required direction.  Elevation adjustment is done by either filing down the foresight, or squeezing it in a vice to make it taller.  Not that the lack of accurate sights was a major issue – this isn’t a target pistol, it’s a hard-working, blue-collar gun designed to hurl a large bullet in the approximate direction in which it’s pointed.  The SAA is also lefty-friendly.  Because there is no manual safety or cylinder release on the left side of the pistol, it can be used comfortably in either hand.  And the loading gate on the right is especially easy to use for lefties.

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But though it may not have provided pinpoint accuracy, if you did hit something with a Colt SAA you were going to do some serious damage.  Those soft, .45″ bullets travelling at over 900fps caused horrific injuries.  Remember all those movies and television shows where the good guy would get shot in the left arm?  And he would either ignore this or perhaps pause briefly while he or his adoring girlfriend tied a handkerchief round the wound before he continued to battle the bad guys?  Well, I’m afraid you can forget about that.  Getting hit in the arm with a round from a Colt SAA might tear the arm off altogether or at least shatter the bone so comprehensively that you’d be left permanently disabled.  If you got hit in the body or chest, you’d be left with a baseball-sized exit wound and very little time to explain that you’d come for the man who shot your Pa.  This gun had stopping power long before that term was invented.

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Of course the SAA wasn’t perfect.  The sights were basically useless and accuracy (especially with early cartridges) was poor.  Adequate if you were trying to shoot the hombre with aces up his sleeve on the other side of a poker table, less so if you were trying to hit a man-sized target at anything over 50 feet.  Distorted cartridge cases were difficult to remove, even using the ejector rod (you might wonder about that given that cowboys in movies and television shows from the 50s and 60s never had any trouble emptying out their used cartridge cases – this was because the reduced charge used in blank shells didn’t tend to distort the cases).  The SAA had no manual safety and no drop safety, but it was provided with a half-cock position for the trigger, which allowed the gun to be carried safely.  Sort of.  After a number of US Cavalry troopers and civilians shot themselves or their horses while galloping with a half-cocked SAA, it was decided that it was safer to load with just five cartridges and keep an empty cylinder under the hammer.

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Jessie James’ Colt SAA

The Colt SAA has become one of the most collectible handguns from the Wild West period.  Very large sums indeed are paid for examples with well-documented provenance.  A Colt SAA with the serial number 1 was sold at auction in 2009 for $862,500 (at the time this was the highest price ever paid for a historic handgun).  Another SAA which belonged to outlaw Jessie James went to auction in 2013 with a starting price of $400,000.  Even first generation SAAs in only fair condition and with no particular history sell for $3000 – $5000.  So, for many people, replicas are the only way to enjoy the SAA experience without spending a great deal of money.

Colt SAA Replicas

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Marushin removable shell 6mm SAA

There have been a number CO2 and gas powered replicas of the Colt SAA over the years (there have also been several spring powered versions, but really?  Don’t bother!), but none have been ideal both as replicas and as shooters.  Hahn/Crosman produced a range of CO2 powered SAA replicas from the 1950s to the 1980s.  All shot pretty well, but they looked slightly odd due to the CO2 cartridge being located under the barrel.  Tanaka produced a beautiful gas powered SAA replica using their Cassiopeia system in the early 2000s where compressed gas was stored in the removable shells.  Unfortunately, these proved to be unreliable and shot with all the power and authority of a gnat breaking wind.  They were also discontinued fairly quickly due to concerns in Japan that they could be converted to fire real cartridges.  Tanaka responded with a redesigned SAA using their Pegasus system and Marushin have also produced a removable shell SAA replica, though neither are particularly satisfactory shooters.

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Umarex Colt SAA

It wasn’t until 2015 that we finally got a decent Colt SAA replica which was also a reasonable shooter. Umarex released a CO2 powered Colt SAA with removable shells and a 5½” barrel. It’s generally a decent visual replica of the original and is available in 4.5mm, 6mm and .177” pellet shooting versions. If you want an SAA replica that you can also enjoy shooting, this is currently the only option.

Conclusion

For me, the Colt SAA is one of those replicas which no collection should be without.  Whether you are interested in the history of this iconic handgun or you just want to practice your quick-draw technique, the Colt SAA does it all. It’s surprising and perhaps a little disappointing that there is only one current SAA replica that both looks like the original and shoots well, but at least we do now have the Umarex Colt SAA. It’s not the perfect replica, but at least it does give those of us who are interested in handguns the opportunity to experience a little of that SAA magic.

Related pages:  

Crosman Wild West replicas

The Umarex Colt SAA

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Colt SAA on the Umarex website

Refurbishing and repairing a Crosman 44 Peacemaker

Sometimes when working on old air pistols, you end up wishing that you had never started. That happened to me when I acquired a slightly weary Crosman Model 44 Peacemaker, a replica of the Colt 1873 Single Action Army (SAA).  Produced between 1970 and 1976, the Crosman 44 Peacemaker is a .22” pellet shooting replica (some of the Crosman .177” Wild West revolver replicas also shoot steel BBs).  I have always fancied one of these Crosman replicas, but the prices in the UK for working models are very high.   So, when I was offered a leaky and in need of refurbishment Model 44 at a reasonable price, I was happy to go along with it.  However, buying a non-working older gun is always a gamble – you never know quite what you’re getting, and spares can be fiendishly hard to find.

The purpose of this article is to share some of the things I learned while refurbishing my 44 Peacemaker so that you can avoid making the same mistakes that I made.

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Here is the Crosman, as received and pretty much as described by the seller.  Paint is flaking off the metal cylinder, the finish has completely rubbed off the hammer and trigger and there are a few areas where the paint on the body has chipped and discoloured.  However, the gun cocked and dry fired well with a nice positive action and the cylinder appeared to index correctly (though only shooting a pellet will show if this is actually true).  The plastic CO2 cover was also missing, though I knew that when I agreed to buy. This probably average condition for a replica air gun of this age – this one is at least forty years old.

However, putting in a CO2 cartridge revealed a bad leak.  CO2 was venting continuously through the barrel, which suggested a failed main seal.  In the short time that the 44  held CO2, it did seem to cock and fire properly (though I didn’t try it with a pellet).  My plan was to fix the leak and to do a general cosmetic refurbishment of the pistol at the same time.

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The first step was to strip down the 44 Peacemaker and try to find the cause of the leak.  Very few tools are needed – a couple of good quality screwdrivers are used for dismantling and a pair of needle nosed pliers are useful for removing tiny springs without having them twang into the middle distance.  First the plastic grips were removed by releasing the slotted screw on the left grip.

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Then the four slotted screws that hold the two halves of the 44 frame together.  Once these are removed from the right side, the upper (right) half can be lifted clear.  Nothing pinged off – hurrah!  At a first glance, everything seemed to be there (even the tiny détente spring and ball bearing) and nothing looked broken.  At this point I took lots of pictures for reference before doing anything else.

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Next I removed the cylinder, complete with valve assembly (which just slides out of the front of the cylinder when this is removed).  This was followed by the barrel, CO2 tightening screw, main leaf spring and the hammer, trigger, trigger return spring, safety bar and indexing pawl.  All these parts simply lift out when the halves are separated.  Finally the tiny détente spring and ball bearing were removed.

The only problem I immediately noticed is that the hammer has clearly been rubbing on the inside of the left frame half – some sort of spacer may be required here.

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Bright area (arrowed) showing where the hammer has been rubbing

With the valve assembly out of the cylinder, I could see that one or two of the O-rings have nicks and marks (I’ll be replacing them all anyway), but there are no obvious problems.  Given that the leak is coming from the barrel, I suspect that the problem is the main seal.  This is accessed by unscrewing the top of the valve assembly.

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There isn’t much in there really.  There was nothing obviously wrong with the main seal, but this had to the source of the leak. Next step was to try to remove this seal from the firing/piercing pin to see if I could fabricate a replacement for the nitrile seal.  This looked simple – all I had to do was drift the seal and brass carrier forwards off the pin.  What could possibly go wrong?

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And here’s the answer – overenthusiastic drifting led to a broken firing pin and the severe startling of my cat due to a sudden storm of expletives.  Few things are more irritating than a problem you have caused entirely by yourself.  And this was purely down to me.  The brass carrier was very tightly drifted on to the pin, and I should have been more careful in my attempts to remove it.  Now, fabricating a new firing pin is beyond my meagre engineering capabilities, but fortunately I know a man who can.  Nick at Magic 9 Design is not only a nice bloke but also a talented gunsmith who specialises in airguns (see link at bottom of this article).  Nick responded to my panicked e-mails with reassurance that he’d be able to make me a new firing pin.  I posted off the broken parts of the pin to Nick and started working on the cosmetic refurbishment while I waited for the new pin.

I had better say right here that I am by no means an expert on refurbishing old air pistols.  However I have been restoring old motorcycles and sports cars for more than 25 years, so I do know something about making sad old bits of metal look shiny again.

The first step was to re-paint the 44.  I know folk have lots of different views about this – some people think that repainting spoils the originality of a gun.  I go along with this to a degree, but I believe that the original paint on this 44 was so chipped and flaked that there wasn’t any alternative.  If you are going to paint a gun, the first thing to look at is the original finish – is it matt, semi-matt (sometimes called satin) or gloss?  On the 44 it’s a semi-matt finish for the body of the gun and the cylinder, with a matt finish on the hammer and trigger.  The first job was to paint the cylinder.  This is fairly straightforward as it’s a metal cylinder on the 44 (the cylinder is plastic on some of the later Crosman Wild West revolvers).

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Cylinder stripped and ready for paint

If you are painting a pistol, I’d strongly recommend spray rather than brush painting. You need the right colour and finish, obviously, but you also want something that’s resistant to chipping and which won’t dissolve if it’s exposed to solvents or oils.  There are lots of good paints out there, but over the years I have used the Hammerite range of spray paints with good results.  These paints seem to bond well with metal (they’re used without primer), they last well and they’re readily available at home improvement and car accessory outlets so that’s what I decided to use here.

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Left frame half, partly stripped.

Preparing the surface for painting is critical.  You need to get all traces of the old paint off.  If you use a good quality paint stripper, this isn’t too difficult, but you do need some patience to get into all the nooks and crannies.  If you find stubborn bits of paint which won’t come off easily, don’t scrape at them with anything metal (like a screwdriver blade), you’ll just mark the metal.  Instead, use a wooden spatula – an old ice lolly stick is ideal or a large kitchen style matchstick will do at a push.  Do check what you’re trying to get the old paint off – some aggressive paint strippers will dissolve plastic just as happily as paint, so check what it says on the tin before using paint stripper on plastic components.

When all the old paint is off, clean the item in warm water with some washing-up liquid in it.  This will help to get all the grease from years of use and your sticky finger marks off the metal.  Once the piece is clean, rinse it carefully with clean, warm water and don’t handle it before it’s painted.

OK, now you’re ready to paint.  Almost.  Before you start, warm the paint.  Stand the aerosol can of paint in warm water for about 15 minutes before you start to spray.  This helps the paint to flow better and gives a much better finish.  When you’re spraying, use light, even coats.  Don’t be tempted to try to put on lots of paint in one go.  I find that 2 – 3 light coats, with at least 30 minutes between coats works well.

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Frame halves and cylinder painted.

Let the piece dry thoroughly before handling.  Most paints take at least 24 hours to cure properly but some take even longer.  Don’t panic if the finish doesn’t look right immediately.  Some paints take time to achieve their final finish – for example, the Hammerite paint looks gloss when it’s first sprayed, and it doesn’t turn semi-gloss for about 12 – 18 hours after application.

Initially I was happy with the finish on my 44 – it looked just about the right tone of semi-matt.  However, after leaving it to cure for a couple of days, I noticed some bubbling of the paint in small areas (circled, below).

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It was obvious that I hadn’t removed all the old paint and that these tiny traces of original paint had reacted with the new paint to cause the bubbling.  Unfortunately, when this happens, the only solution is to rub off all the new paint and start again, being especially careful to remove every trace of the old paint.

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Stripped and ready for painting.  Again.

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Painted, again.  No bubbling this time.

Once it had cured, the second application of paint on the frames halves and cylinder looked good enough so I also decided to repaint the hammer and trigger at this time.  I cleaned all traces of the existing finish off both and painted using a spray matt-finish black.  You can see the result below (the wire is used to hang the piece during painting and drying).  The paint has reacted with something on the metal to cause bubbling and a strange gloss finish. The trigger was exactly the same.   Beginning to wish I had never started the whole repainting job, I removed all the new paint, cleaned both pieces thouroughly and started again.

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I tried using two different types of paint, and the result was precisely the same both times.  It seems as though there is something impregnated into the hammer and trigger which no amount of cleaning will remove and which reacts with the new paint.  I finally ordered a small bottle of Birchwood Casey Aluminium Black from Amazon.  This is supposed to provide cold blueing of light alloys, such as those in air pistols.

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And… it worked!  After half a dozen applications, I ended up with a durable looking matt, very dark grey finish on the hammer and trigger.  Which is pretty much what I was hoping for.  I also tidied up the grip and frame screws at this point.  The heads of some of the screws were badly chewed up.  The easiest way to do this is to stick the screws individually in the chuck of an electric drill and use fine grade wet and dry paper on them as they rotate.  I could have tried to source new screws, but I imagine that finding identical fasteners for a gun of this age would be very difficult.  I also prefer to re-use original components wherever possible.  Poking the screws through holes in a piece of card gives good support for re-painting with the same semi-gloss black used on the frame.4417

I also ran a wire brush over the CO2 tightening wheel to clean it up, and that finished the cosmetic side of the refurb.

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At around this time the firing pin was returned from Magic 9 Design.  Nick had made, tempered and hardened a new firing pin to replace the one that I broke, and installed a new 90 Shore Hardness polyurethane stem seal.  And very nice it looked too.  I hope that the new stem seal should fix the leak.

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All O-rings were replaced at this time and all internal components were cleaned, checked and lubricated with appropriate oil and grease.  Reassembly is fairly straightforward as long as you notice that there is a locating pin on the frame (arrowed) which must fit into a hole on the cap of the valve assembly (arrowed, inset), or you will be baffled and frustrated that the frame halves won’t quite join properly. Guess how I know that? 4421

The only really fiddly bit is installing the tiny détente ball and spring (arrowed below).  This isn’t a job to try if you have had more than your allotted daily ration of caffine!

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With the pistol back in one piece, it was time to try the action.  Unfortunately, it was immediately apparent that the new paint on the front of the cylinder was causing the cylinder to bind making the action stiff and scratchy.  So, I dismantled again and sanded the new paint off the front of the cylinder before reassembling.

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After the second reassembly, the action was very good indeed – smooth, light, precise and creamy.  Interestingly, the hammer was no longer rubbing on the left frame half, even though I hadn’t installed a spacer.  Oh well, that’s one less thing to worry about.  It was then time to try CO2 in the pistol.  This 44 didn’t come with a plastic CO2 cover, so when spraying the pistol, I also sprayed a few CO2 cartridges black just to make them look a little less obtrusive.

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Time for the moment of truth – I inserted a new CO2 and…

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No leak!  Even better, the 44 now shoots very nicely indeed.  The single action only trigger is beautiful and the pistol is satisfyingly loud and reasonably powerful. It isn’t especially accurate despite having a rifled barrel, but the lack of a decent rear sight makes it less of a problem than it might otherwise be. Overall I’m very happy with the way that my 44 shoots and it doesn’t look too bad now either.

Final thoughts?  It was much harder to get a decent finish on this pistol than I had expected though the cold blueing solution worked better than I expected.  Breaking the firing pin was stupid and entirely my fault – some care is required when working on this part.  Internally, the metal parts of the gun showed few signs of wear at all, despite the pistol being more than 40 years old.  Internally the 44 Peacemaker is pretty simple and requires no special tools to disassemble.

Before…

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After…

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And with some of my other Colt SAA replicas…

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The refurbished and fully operational 44 Peacemaker is at bottom right. At top left is a Crosman Peacemaker 44 in .177” fitted with rosewood grips and top right and bottom left are a couple of gas powered, 6mm Tanaka SAA replicas.

Update

Thanks to World of Replica Air Pistols reader Sidney Shaw who sent me details of a good way to cover up the CO2 cartridge if you don’t have the plastic cover (and on lots of these replicas, this is missing) and yo don’t want to paint the CO2 cartridge. You can buy packs of 50 tubular, black battery covers intended to be used to be heat-shrunk on to batteries. Now, just to be clear, it’s best not to shrink these in place, because the heat involved may cause the CO2 cartridge to explode, but fortunately they fit pretty well without shrinking.

Here you can see Sidney’s SA6 with one of these covers in place.

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The order code for these covers is 18650 and you can find them here: www.fasttech.com/p/4436901

At less than $2 for 50, these are a great way to cover up that CO2 cartridge.

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Classic replica air pistol review: Crosman Wild West Revolvers

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Classic replica air pistol review: Crosman Wild West revolvers

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In 1958 Crosman produced their first Colt Single Action Army replica.  They were so nervous about the reception the new pistol might receive that they created a new company just to sell the gun, so that if it flopped, the Crosman name wouldn’t be tainted by association.  In the event, it was a huge success and over the next twenty-five years Crosman went on to sell very large numbers of a range of Wild West revolver replicas while establishing themselves as a leading player in the replica air gun market.  But, are the Crosman Wild West revolvers actually any good?

Background  

In the 1950s, America went Wild West crazy.  There had always been an interest in the frontier period, but television, books and movies about the Wild West and its characters suddenly seemed to be everywhere.  By 1959, there were more than 30 Western series on prime-time US television every week and seven out of the top ten rated shows were Westerns (Gunsmoke ran for more than 20 years, longer than any previous prime-time drama series).  Movies also made extensive use of the Wild West setting.  To name just a few of the best from this decade: The Gunfighter, (1950), Only the Valiant (1951), High Noon (1952), Shane (1953), River of No Return (1954), The Far Country (1955), The Searchers (1956), Gunfight at the OK Corral (1957), The Big Country (1958), Rio Bravo (1959) and The Alamo (1960).

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Many theories have been put forward to explain the sudden interest in the old West.  Most consider the growing uncertainties and fears of Communism and the burgeoning cold war and have suggested that this promoted nostalgia for a period when good and bad appeared to more clearly defined.  Whatever the reason, interest in the Wild West spread outside the borders of America and there could hardly have been a small boy in the English speaking world and beyond who didn’t play Cowboys and Indians at some point in the 1950s and 60s.  As part of this fascination, one gun came to be associated with the period more than any other: The Colt Single Action Army revolver.  Colt had ended production of the SAA in 1940 after a sixty-seven year production run, but such was the interest in all things Western that it was re-introduced in 1956.

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The Crosman Arms Company Inc. (later to become Crosman Air Guns) was founded in 1925 by members of the Crosman family, who also owned the large and very successful Crosman Seed Company.  Crosman produced several moderately successful pneumatic pump air rifles, but the effects of the Great depression limited sales and by 1940 the company had just six employees.  The flamboyant and mercurial entrepreneur Philip Y. Hahn (who was related by marriage to the Crosman family) had been involved from the beginning, but left in 1930 following disagreements over the direction the company should take.  However, in 1940, Hahn bought the company from the Crosman family for just five thousand dollars and set out to revitalise its range.  Sales were slow during World War Two, but in the post-war years Hahn identified a growing market for recreational target shooting airguns, especially models using the new compressed CO2 cartridges.  The interest in the Wild West in the 50s prompted Hahn to consider the production of replicas of guns from that period (Crosman hadn’t produced any air guns which were replicas of firearms until then), using zinc alloy die-cast mouldings, powered by 12g CO2 cartridges and shooting BBs (all previous Crosman guns had been pellet shooters).

Crosman had previously produced only high quality, powerful pellet shooting air guns, and there was a degree of nervousness in the company about an association with what some people might see as more toy-like BB shooters.  To avoid possible problems, it was decided to market the new Wild West replicas under a different company name, and the P. Y. Hahn Mfg. Co. Inc. was established specifically to produce and sell the new BB shooting Hahn “45” revolver and the Model 166 repeating rifle.

Hahn “45” Revolver (1958 – 1970)

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Advertisement for the Hahn “45” from the May 1959 edition of Popular Mechanics

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The Hahn “45” was a full-size replica of the Colt Single Action Army made from die cast zinc alloy and it weighed and balanced almost exactly like the original.  The firing valve and CO2 seat remained fixed in place inside the cylinder, but the outer metal part of the cylinder revolved to bring each BB in line with the barrel.  A CO2 cartridge was stored under the barrel and tightened by turning a thumb wheel under the front of the barrel.  Piercing was done by firing a single shot.  The Hahn “45” stored up to 18, 4.5mm BBs (six in the cylinder chambers and twelve in a spring-fed tubular magazine).  A rather flimsy black plastic cover was used to conceal the CO2 cartridge, and these were often quickly lost or broken.  The trigger was single action only and the hammer had a half-cock position, just like the original pistol.  Grips were plastic but provided in a distinctive imitation staghorn finish.

Hahn used extensive advertising to promote the 45, including appearances by Dee Woolem, the National Fast Draw Pistol Champion and self-proclaimed “fastest gun alive“. The Hahn “45” was an immediate and spectacular success and Hahn went on to offer a high-quality leather cowboy style rig incorporating a pouch for CO2 cartridges to promote the use of the new replica in increasingly popular fast-draw competitions.

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Dee Woolem demonstrates his fast-draw action

When it became apparent that the new replica wasn’t going to be an embarrassment to Crosman, it was sold under Crosman branding between 1963 and 1970 as the “Crosman 45“.  Although provided in Crosman packaging, the Crosman 45 is identical to the original Hahn “45” and even includes “P. Y. Hahn Mfg. Co. Inc” text on the castings.

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Crosman Single Action 6 (1959 – 1969)

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Following the success of the BB shooting Hahn “45”, Crosman released a .22″ pellet shooting version, the Single Action 6 (SA6) within a year.  Concerns about linking the Crosman name with a replica had obviously disappeared and the SA6 was identified as a Crosman product from the start.  The SA6 is mechanically similar to the Hahn “45”, and uses some of the same castings and internal parts though is does not have the spring fed magazine for additional rounds.  Instead, up to six pellets are loaded one at a time, skirt first into the front of the cylinder through an opening on the right side of the frame.  Pellets are retained in the cylinders by a spring which runs round the inside of the revolving part of the cylinder.  The SA6 has a 4.25″ rifled barrel and is a weighty, well balanced pistol and was provided with black or white imitation staghorn grips.  Four different versions of the SA6 were produced during its ten year production run, but the differences are minor and mainly involve changes in markings.

cb97b770aaa75e14636b6d2d8669e66e Crosman Peacemaker 44 .22″ (1970 – 1976)

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The Crosman Peacemaker 44 in .22″ calibre is mechanically virtually identical to the SA6, though it is claimed to be less powerful.  The principal visual difference is that brown, wood-effect plastic grips have replaced the imitation staghorn versions on the SA6.  The Peacemaker 44 is of all-metal construction and is still a weighty pistol, though many people feel that the quality of fit and finish is not as good as seen on the SA6.  Three different types of Peacemaker 44 were made between 1970 – 1976, but the differences are minor and mainly involve changes in markings.

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This picture shows my .22″ Peacemaker 44 after restoration.  As on many examples, the flimsy plastic CO2 cover has been lost at some point and I painted a few CO2 cartridges black to use with this replica.

Crosman Frontier 36 (1970 – 1975)

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The Crosman Frontier 36 is essentially a Crosman rebranding of the original BB shooting Hahn “45”, with some detail changes and price cutting measures.  For example, the hammer no longer has a half-cock position, grips are brown, wood-effect plastic and this version is less powerful than the original.  Otherwise, the Frontier 36 is functionally identical to the Hahn “45”.  On some versions, the hammer and trigger are polished rather than the more common black.

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Crosman Peacemaker 44 .177″ (1976 – 1981)

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The Peacemaker 44, .177″ is similar in construction to the previous .22 version, except that it has a plastic outer cylinder.  This plus some other detail changes make it much lighter than the .22″version.  On some versions, the left grip includes a gold coloured Crosman medallion.

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Crosman Model 1861 Shiloh (1981 – 1983)

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The Crosman Model 1861 Shiloh is a replica of the Remington Model 1861 Army revolver.  While it’s visually similar to the original, it isn’t as close a replica as the other Crosman Wild West revolvers are to the Colt SAA.  It also introduces some new features.  The Model 1861 is the first of this series of Crosman replicas to feature a manual safety, with a crossbolt type safety below the cylinder. The CO2 cover is a hinged section underneath the barrel, in the position occupied by the loading lever on the original firearm.  The CO2 tightening screw beneath the barrel is much bigger on the Model 1861 and this replica is able to shoot both .177″ pellets and 4.5mm BBs.  Finally, more parts are made of plastic on this replica including the CO2 cover and the cylinder.  The sights on this replica are also similar to conventional notch and post sights, which helps to make this one of the most accurate of all the Crosman Western replicas.

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Specifications

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Function and shooting

I have owned three of these Crosman replicas: A Peacemaker 44 in .22″ calibre, a Peacemaker 44 in .177″ calibre and a Model 1861 Shiloh, so information on shooting and use are mainly based on my experience of these models.

A commonly held view is that the earliest of these Crosman Wild West replicas are the best in terms of fit, finish and power.  My experience certainly seems to confirm this.  My favourite was the oldest in my collection, the Peacemaker 44 in .22″ calibre.  It felt sturdy, hefty, well-made and it was reasonably powerful and shot with a very satisfying bang.  In contrast, the later Peacemaker 44 in .177″ and the Shiloh felt notably lighter and more “plasticky” and neither was particularly more powerful or accurate though both used less CO2.

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The brass firing valve in all models is fixed in position and the outer cylinder (which holds the pellets and/or BBs) rotates round this.  As the outer cylinder indexes it lines up one of six air galleries with the firing valve outlet.  Each gallery leads to one of the pellet/BB seating areas in the front of the cylinder.  It’s a simple layout (other than the stem seal on the firing pin, there are only three O rings in the whole CO2 system) and robust, though not especially efficient.   The action is fairly simple with a leaf hammer spring and a coil trigger spring and the single action trigger pull is wonderful, one of the best I have come across in a replica.  When buying any older replica, it’s sensible to assume that seals and O rings may need to be replaced and that some level of fettling may be required and the Crosman Wild West replicas are no different in this respect.

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The sights on the original SAA are rudimentary and only visible when the hammer is cocked and they’re nicely replicated here.  A V-shaped groove is cast into the rear upper frame and this can be lined up with the narrow front post.  A bit.  Sort of.  Because of the sights, the Crosman Wild West replicas are never going to be tack drivers.  And even if you could contrive some sort of mounting, you really don’t want to fit any of these with a red-dot or anything like that.  Live with it.  Jesse James did…

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Loading CO2 is simple – just loosen the thumb screw under the front of the barrel, insert the CO2 and tighten.  On my Peacemaker 44, .22″, the CO2 seal was an O ring inside the brass CO2 chamber which sealed against the shoulder of the CO2 cartridge.  On the .177″ version and Shiloh the CO2 seal was a conventional face-seal.  All sealed without leaks.  Once tightened, the CO2 isn’t pierced until you cock the hammer and fire a shot.  It’s best to do this without pellets loaded because the piercing shot is very low power, and you’ll likely end up with a pellet stuck in the barrel.

BB shooting versions are loaded by pouring BBs into the under-barrel, spring fed magazine.  As the cylinder turns, these are fed into the chamber openings in the cylinder.  Pellet shooting versions are loaded by turning the cylinder until one of the chambers lines up with the opening on the right side of the frame, in front of the cylinder.  One pellet is then pushed into the chamber, skirt first, until it engages with the internal spring.  Then the cylinder is turned and the next pellet loaded.  Using chunky man-fingers to load the pellet shooters is a slow and cumbersome process which I found even more difficult with .177″ pellets – the larger .22″ items just seemed easier to load.  The Shiloh  can also be used to fire 4.5mm BBs which are loaded in the same way, though I have no idea why you’d want to do this given that shooting steel BBs through a rifled barrel is never going to give good accuracy and can actually damage the barrel.

Once you have CO2 and pellets/BBs in place you’re ready to fire.  The hammer cocks with a smooth and satisfying “snick”, and the pistol nestles in your hand perfectly.  You line up what pass for sights in the general direction of the target and pull the trigger (which is short, light, consistent and all-round great).  The first thing you’ll notice is the sound.  Early versions of these guns are loud.  Really loud.  Loud enough to leave your ears ringing after an extended shooting session.  Personally, I like this.  I have also owned a couple of Tanaka 6mm Colt SAA replicas.  They were gorgeous – beautifully made and finished, but they lacked power and when you pulled the trigger, they went “fip“.  When I pulled the trigger on my .22” Peacemaker it went “KA-BOOM“.   I know which I prefer, but if your spouse, family, pets or neighbours object to sudden loud noises, you may want to consider carefully if you really want one of these.

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Six shots, six yards, free-standing, Peacemaker 44, .22″

OK, so you have shot off six pellets, your startled cat has run up next-door’s tree and you can see your wife’s lips moving but you can hear only a low drone over the ringing sound in your ears (hmm, maybe I can live with that…).  Then you look at the target.  And you’re probably going to be a little bit disappointed. Because, despite their rifled barrels, none of the Crosman pellet shooting Wild West rplicas are especially accurate.  My .22″ Peacemaker grouped at around 1½” – 2½” inches at six yards and my .177″ Peacemaker grouped closer to 3″ at the same range.  My .177″ Shiloh was a little better, giving groups of around 1½”.  Overall, no better than most BB shooters really.  I have seen claims of much better accuracy with these replicas, so perhaps the barrels on the versions I owned were worn? All I can really say is that in my experience these are  not particularly accurate and the basic and non-adjustable sights make things even worse.

Power is reasonable.  On a chilly November day in Scotland, my .22″ Peacemaker chronoed at an average of 230fps for a six shot string. In the same conditions, my .177″ Peacemaker averaged at 290fps and the Shiloh at around 300fps.  I believe that you can expect around 270-290fps from an SA6 in good condition and around 320-350fps for the Hahn “45” and the Frontier 36.  CO2 consumption varies.  My .22″ Peacemaker gave no more than 36 shots from a single CO2, with the last two notably losing power.  The Shiloh and .177″ Peacemaker were a little better, with 40 – 50 shots per CO2 depending on temperature.

Reliability

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Working on any of the Crosman SAA replicas is simple – four slotted screws hold the two halves of the cast body together – when these are removed and the pistol is laid in its left side, the right-hand casing can be lifted off, leaving the cylinder, valve, hammer, trigger and indexing mechanism in-situ.

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The CO2 seating and firing valve in the Crosman Wild West replicas is an elegantly simple design.  There is no pipework – everything is contained in a brass housing in the centre of the cylinder which remains static while the outer part of the cylinder revolves.  There are only four seals in the whole design: one O ring seals the outlet part of the valve into the main body and another seals outlet tube into the body of the pistol.  On early versions the CO2 seal is another O ring which seals against the neck of the CO2 cartridge, on later versions it’s a conventional face seal.  Finally, there is a face-seal on the firing pin, contained within a brass housing.  All O rings are easily replaced, though the face seals need more specialist equipment to replace and are best left to an experienced airgunsmith.

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Metal outer cylinder and brass valve from my Peacemaker 44, .22″

The hammer spring is a steel leaf which can be placed in three alternative positions to vary tension.  The trigger, hammer and indexing mechanism is also admirably simple, especially if compared to more modern revolver replicas.

Problems with these replicas are mainly related to age and use.  O rings and face seals degrade and must be replaced.  Hammer springs break or lose their elasticity and must be replaced.  On the Peacemaker 44, .177″ and the Model 1861 Shiloh the plastic outer cylinder is prone to wear on the drive teeth which affects indexing and will eventually cause the pistol to fail altogether.  All models benefit from lubrication of the trigger, indexing and hammer mechanisms.

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Wear on the plastic cylinder drive teeth on a Shiloh

Overall, the Crosman Wild West replicas with metal cylinders are robust, well-made and well engineered.  With regular lubrication and seal replacement, these will go on shooting almost indefinitely so there is no need to be put off by the idea of buying a replica that might be more than fifty years old. I would be a little more cautious about buying an example of the Peacemaker 44, .177″ and the Model 1861 Shiloh versions with plastic cylinders – the plastic indexing teeth on the cylinders can wear, and if this happens your replica won’t be much use other than as a wall decoration.

Conclusion

They don’t make ’em like this any more.  No, really, they don’t!  The early Crosman Wild West pistols are heavy, well-engineered, crude, loud, inaccurate and use more CO2 than you might expect.  And they’re wonderful.  They really do handle and balance like the original.  If the sights are useless, well I guess that’s just how it was back in the old West.  I think that most people would enjoy handling and shooting an SA6 or a Peacemaker 44 in .22″ calibre.  I haven’t tried the Hahn “45”, but I believe that it’s similar too.

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Polished SA6 with pearl grips.  I want one of these!

The newer versions are more frugal with CO2, quieter and the Shiloh is certainly more accurate.  However, I don’t really care for these new models so much.  They’re generally much lighter than the early versions and use more plastic in their construction.  Compared to my .22″ Peacemaker which I used regularly, my .177″ Peacemaker and Shiloh spent most of their time gathering dust at the back of the gun cabinet.  In my opinion, the later versions don’t have the accuracy to compete with more modern pellet shooting replicas and lack the character and fun factor of the early all metal models.

So, find yourself a decent Hahn “45”, an SA6 or a .22″ Peacemaker 44 and one of those quick-draw rigs, set up a target featuring a mean hombre in a black hat and I think you’ll have plenty of fun.

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Related pages

Classic Handguns: The Colt Single Action Army revolver

Technical article: Repairing and refurbishing a Crosman 44 Peacemaker

Classic replica air pistol review: Crosman 38 revolvers

Classic replica air pistol review:The Marksman Repeater

Umarex Colt SAA

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